I found myself reliving my metro-with-luggage experience once again, though this time was much easier because a) I actually knew where I was going b) I wasn’t alone and c) I had a backpack and a purse instead of two rolling suitcases. We had been nervous about making it to the airport on time but ended up having almost 2 hours to spare when we arrived. We patted ourselves on the back and felt like quite the accomplished jet-setters.
We had a quick layover and connecting flight in Frankfurt and got into Vienna right around midnight. We opted to take a cab to the hotel rather than try and navigate a new metro system in a foreign language late at night; it was an excellent choice because driving through Vienna at night was absolutely stunning, even though I probably would have chosen a different soundtrack than Adele’s “Someone Like You,” which was the driver’s selection. In a way the architecture reminds me of Paris, but even more uniform and much better maintained. It looked as if someone cleans and restores the buildings every week—maybe they do I don’t know—but that’s how pristine it was! Immediately we all commented on the lack of garbage in the streets and the absence of the omnipresent smell of urine in the metro station and the odd realization that we were breathing air composed of more oxygen than cigarette smoke for the first time in two months. By Sunday we actually kind of missed the messy humanity of Paris, but I’ll get to that later.
When we got to our hotel, we were all giddy because it felt like we had walked into something out of a Wes Anderson movie…namely, the Grand Budapest Hotel. Maybe it was the exhaustion from traveling or the excitement of a new city or just our general weirdness, but we all talked in these horrendous German accents (except for Mel’s which was spot on) for the rest of the night.
We decided to stop and refuel at the Café Mozart right across the street, one of Vienna’s best known cafés. I had the “Traditional Viennese Soup,” a delicious combo of dumplings, beef, potatoes, carrots, and some other veggies in a broth base. Between that and the endless supply of hearty bread, I agreed with the other girls that I didn’t think I could tackle one of Café Mozarts monstrous desserts, as beautiful as they were, so we decided to all share a piece of warm apple strudel. Yum!
We woke up early the next day because we wanted to make the most of our short weekend trip. After a quick breakfast we started walking in what we believed to be the general direction of Saint Stephens Cathedral because we knew that was top on our list of places to see that day. We did eventually make it there, but it ended up being our last stop of the day after several pleasantly unplanned detours.
Among those detours were several other beautiful, baroque/romanesque churches and the Albertina Museum of Fine Art, into which we received free admission because we’re students under the age of 26. Europe knows how to do things the right way :) We were able to see works by Picasso, Degas, Monet, Modigliani, and Evard Munch. Another bonus? We were allowed to take pictures!
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| Walking along the Danube |
| Lots of cool graffiti |
| And some street art |
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| Hello to you, too. |
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| Church #1 |
| They must get lots of international visitors... |
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| Church #2 |
| Andy Warhol's Mao Zedong |
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| And Jackie O |
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| And Mick Jagger |
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| Picasso |
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| Matisse |
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| Degas |
| Monet |
We decided to stop and refuel at the Café Mozart right across the street, one of Vienna’s best known cafés. I had the “Traditional Viennese Soup,” a delicious combo of dumplings, beef, potatoes, carrots, and some other veggies in a broth base. Between that and the endless supply of hearty bread, I agreed with the other girls that I didn’t think I could tackle one of Café Mozarts monstrous desserts, as beautiful as they were, so we decided to all share a piece of warm apple strudel. Yum!
Replenished and slightly bloated, we were all ready to do some more walking. This leg of our journey led us to stumble upon some of Vienna’s ornate government buildings. We saw the Parliament building, Palace of Justice, and the Rathaus (city hall) and its surrounding gardens as well as the Opera House and Rathausplatz, a charming square where we found various booths selling all sorts of treats, crafts, and knicknacks. Our trek from Café Mozart had gotten our metabolisms going again, so naturally we had to stop for a snack of pretzels and warm apple cider…when in Vienna, right?
We finally made it to Stephansplatz, a labyrinth of side-streets surrounding the square where the actual church is found. It took a lot of willpower not to stop in every boutique we walked past, but our destination was in sight so we put on our blinders and tried not to notice the plethora of flannel scarves and made-for-fall boots we were passing up. And good thing we did, because the inside of the church was amazing! Pictures don’t even do it justice, but I tried.
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| Opera House |
| And inside |
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| You can't pass up 3 for 6 euros! |
Friday night, we went back to a cute side street near the Danube River we had walked down during our earlier wanderings and found a cozy restaurant with no fewer than 6 items on the menu containing pumpkin in some way, shape or form. I’m a pumpkin fanatic, so I may or may not have gotten pumpkin soup to start and then risotto with chicken and pumpkin as a main course. I regret nothing.
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After dinner we walked around for awhile. It was eerily empty compared to Paris, and undoubtedly much more quiet, but we still commented on how safe the streets felt. We made our way back to our hotel, watched part of the Sound of Music on Jaci’s laptop (I wish I was kidding about that part but I’m not), decided which characters we would all be and sang a few off-key numbers before going to sleep.
Saturday we greeted the day early once again, though this time setting off in the opposite direction to find the Hundertwasserhaus, a modern art museum built right in line with its surrounding buildings but in a style all its own. I wouldn’t be surprised if it was one of those landmarks that people protest at first because of its strangeness but gradually come to love…just like le Tour Eiffel :)
Afterwards, we enjoyed a traditional Austrian lunch…I ordered champignonschnitzel mostly because I liked the sound of it, and it was a very lucky shot in the dark! It ended up being chicken schnitzel (breaded and pounded very thin) with mushrooms and cheese dumplings in a white cream sauce. We then took a stroll through the nearby Stadtpark. Even I, with my non-existent German skills, could figure out that translation. It was a beautiful place to rest for a bit and of course snap some photos! We gave ourselves permission to go all-out tourist in Vienna since we usually try to keep that in check in Paris like the seasoned Frenchwomen we are. Ha.
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| Mel, Jaci, and me |
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| Me and Jaci |
Our next stop was Schönbrunn Palace, which gives Versailles a run for its money if you ask me. This was our first time using Viennese public transport since we had arrived, and while we were waiting in like to buy tickets from the kiosk, a helpful young woman confided in us that nobody actually pays. The Austrian system of regulation is notoriously lax, and we could essentially hop on and off as we pleased. It turns out she was right, and it was quite a revelation to us: no pesky tickets or malfunctioning Navigo passes; no bars to hop over (figuratively for us, literally for those who jump over the ticket gates in Paris), and no uniformed officers waiting at the exit to check that you’re being honest! Crazy.
That night, Melanie, Jaci, and Bojana were heading to a performance at the opera they had bought tickets for earlier that day. Annie and I had opted out and instead were going to meet up with her cousin who just happened to be studying abroad in Vienna this semester with Wake Forest University. He and some of his friends took us to an outdoor skating rink (also free), and that was actually magical. It was sort of like Steinberg’s on steroids. There was a stage with live music in the middle of the rink, a small café/bar just on the side of it, and a magnificent Viennese building lit up against the black sky as a backdrop. I felt like I belonged on the cover of the book Angel on the Square (because of the picture, not the title, and ignore the fact that it takes place in Russia). Also, neither Annie nor I fell down so yay for small victories! We were still pretty full from our big lunch that we had eaten relatively late, so instead of dinner we opted to skip straight to dessert. I don’t even have the words to describe the hazelnut torte I ate, but I can assure you I will take the memory to my grave.
We tried to turn in early because we had a wake-up call coming at 4 am, and mind you with daylight savings it was going to feel like 3 am. Ouch. We were both reluctant to leave and also excited to get back to Paris. Vienna showed us an amazing weekend, but the city definitely has a different vibe and I think I prefer the bustle and vivacity of Paris.
After our layover in Dusseldorf, we were on our final plane back to CDG. I was seated next to a man from China named Joseph. He was visiting France for the first time by himself with no French language capabilities. His predicament was all too familiar for me, so when he asked for my help in navigating the airport and heading in the direction of his hotel, I could hardly refuse. During the flight I gave him a quick crash course, a French 101 if you will, so he could at the very least ask people if they can parler Anglais. French people generally don’t appreciate if you just start right off in English, and I can’t say I blame them. We (myself included) tend to assume that EVERYONE speaks English, but imagine how we would react if someone just walked up to us in the States speaking German and expected us to understand? It makes their sass seem a bit more justified.
Once we got to CDG, I did for him exactly what that lovely couple did for me on my first day in Paris. I helped him claim his luggage, take the airport shuttle to terminal 3, buy his ticket from one of those impossible machines, and then wrote out the directions he would need from the station where I would leave him. In return, he gave me his business card, so if anyone is heading to China, I might have a tour guide for you!
Meanwhile, as I herded Joseph through CDG, another young man, Sam, asked if he could join our caravan to Paris. I looked at the other girls with an apologetic smile. They tell me not infrequently that I’m too nice to strangers, and this was not helping my case. Now in my opinion its the more the merrier so of course I welcomed him aboard. In a funny coincidence, Sam was a student studying abroad in Vienna and visiting his boyfriend in Paris, the flip-side of our circumstances. Even funnier, he’s originally from Manhattan and has a number of friends that go to NYU! I can’t stand the song, but its true: it’s a small world after all!
When I finally opened the door to ma petite appartement, I was surprised how much it felt like I was coming home. Don’t get upset, ma famille, nothing will ever be home like good ol’ Missouri, but it was nice realizing how comfortable I am here. Even though there are still some days where I feel like an outsider, they are few and far between, and nothing like it felt in Vienna where I didn’t speak the language or have any knowledge of the layout of the city. Not like here where my metro route home was almost second nature, and when I bumped someone with my bag on the street, “pardon, désolé” came out automatically.
Now that I’m back in Paris, I have a couple more updates for you all—spoiler alert, I’m officially a working girl— but I’ll save those for my next post because I don’t anyone falling asleep at their computer screen after this novella. À bientôt!



















































